It has been a dream of mine to visit Paris for years, but with having a 4 1/2-year old, I was hesitant of what visiting Paris with kids would look like. While planning our trip to see family in Norway this past summer, I found amazingly priced tickets that would allow us to spend 3-4 days in Paris. I had doubts and concerns about how our daughter would handle a whirlwind trip through Paris, but I choose to move forward and booked the tickets. This turned out to be the best decision I could have made! Not only did we get to see the highlights of the city, but our daughter consistently asks when we are going back. She LOVED Paris!

 

Things to Do When Visting Paris with Kids

There is so much to see and do in Paris that it can become overwhelming, especially with kids in tow. The key to visiting Paris with kids or really any major tourist destination is plan beforehand, but NOT overschedule! This will make your trip less hectic and will also give you flexibility if your kids are tired or just need a break to get out and play. When planning our vacation we booked several tours through Viator (a TripAdvisor company). Viator is a well-known company, has great reviews, and we were not disappointed with their tours or service! They saved us from spending hours standing in line at some of the main attractions and their guides were great!

Seine River Cruise

A cruise on the Seine River is a great way to see many of the highlights of Paris from a different perspective, plus most kids love boats! There are a variety of river cruises that can be booked from a sightseeing cruise, to a cruise with lunch or dinner and drinks, to a combo tour that takes you on the cruise and then to other attractions. If you are looking for something mellow to do the first day you arrive in Paris, this is definitely an option! We arrived in Paris mid-afternoon and after dropping off our luggage at our Airbnb, we took the leisurely walk over to the piers for our cruise followed by our Eiffel Tower tour (booked as a combo through Viator). It was the perfect way to start our Paris adventures!

The Eiffel Tower

We booked a night tour for the Eiffel Tower through Viator in combination with a river cruise on the Seine. Due to the sun setting late during the summer, we were able to see the sunset over Paris, as well as, the Eiffel Tower light show (it starts at 10 pm and runs once an hour every hour). The light show does make for a very late night for little ones, but our daughter was beyond amazed with it. While some families would prefer to take in the Eiffel Tower from the ground and enjoy the park around it, we did enjoy going up into the tower and using the binoculars on the viewing platform to look out over the city.

Tip: If you have time before or after your Eiffel Tower tour, make sure to check out the park and the Eiffel Tower Carousel. Your kids will enjoy the break and you will have the opportunity to grab several classic Paris photos with the Eiffel Tower in the background.

Notre Dame de Paris Cathedral and Towers

This is the one attraction that we did not book a skip-the-line tour for and I sincerely regret it. In the summer the lines can be ridiculous (think 3-hour wait to just get inside). Our daughter was not down for that length of wait (especially in the heat without shade) so we ended up not seeing the inside of the cathedral; however, we will definitely be making it a priority on our next visit and will be booking a skip-the-line tour.

We did, however, get to go up into the towers to see the gargoyles and the city from the top of the cathedral towers. In order to reserve a time and not have to wait in line, download the app Duck-the-line. First thing in the morning, look at the available times for the tower tours and book one. The times will be booked up quickly so don’t wait until midday in order to choose an afternoon time. Arrive a couple of minutes early and proceed to the left side of the building. They will call your group/time a few minutes before your scheduled time and in you go.

Tip: Be ready to climb a lot of stairs and keep in mind there are not a lot of places to rest on your way up or down. Our daughter did well heading up and climbed about 80% of the stairs; however, after that she was exhausted, meaning my husband carried her the majority of the way down. Outside of the Notre Dame Cathedral, in the plaza, you are very likely to find a man feeding the pigeons. If you are willing, he will teach you how to feed the birds so that they will land on you and fly around you. Our daughter loved it, but we did make her wash her hands directly after as some pigeons can transmit diseases.

Update: Due to the devastating fire in April of 2019, you will have to check the availability of tours during the clean-up and rebuilding phase.

Luxembourg Gardens and Playground

These lovely gardens and playground located in the 6th arrondissement are not to be missed! We spent hours at this park enjoying the music of a local orchestra and taking in the beauty and peacefulness of the gardens and the grounds of the Luxembourg Palace.

Tip: For a fun afternoon, bring a picnic or take advantage of the small food and crepe stands and enjoy lunch in the shade. There are small sailboats available to rent (for a couple of Euros) that kids can sail on the Grand Basin in the center of the park, as well as, one of the best playgrounds in Paris (small entrance fee). The playground is fenced and has several play structures for all ages. Directly outside the playground are a puppet theatre (Les Marrionettes du Luxembourg) and carousel where the kids can play jeu de bagues, a game where they try to spear rings onto a metal stick.  On weekends, Wednesdays, and during the summer, the park has pony rides and carriage rides.

Arc de Triomphe

You can safely access the Arc de Triomphe from a pedestrian underpass that goes under the Charles de Gaulle. On the day we visited, a military event was being held at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Instead of going up to the top of the Arc de Triumphe (we had already walked/hiked up quite a few stairs that day), we decided to just walk around the base (which is free).

Tip: It is possible to take an elevator up to the viewing terrace if you have mobility issues or very young children; however, to get to the very top be ready to climb a bunch of stairs via a tight spiral staircase (think no strollers, but you can use a baby carrier for little ones). The views at the top are supposed to be amazing and it’s definitely something I want to do next time we go back.

Sacre Coeur Basilica

This beautiful basilica is perched up on a hill with sweeping views of Paris. At the base of the hill, you will find kids playing on a carousel (cost a couple of Euros) and a playground (along Pl. Saint-Pierre to the East of the Funicular) as well as enjoying Nutella crepes. This play area is a nice space to give kids a place to burn energy before heading into the basilica.

If you are up for the climb or your kids still have the energy to burn, you can climb the roughly 200 steps to the basilica entrance. If you would rather avoid the climb in its entirety, you can take the Montmartre funicular. We somehow missed the fact that there was a funicular until after we had made the climb, so we can say we climbed those steps and we got to enjoy the views of Paris in the process! Make sure to bring water as the hike up can be hot in the summer. Once you get to the top, don’t be discouraged by the line, as it goes very quickly. Entrance is free, but they do ask for a small donation as you enter. Once you get inside you will be enamored with the beautiful stain glass, artwork, and statues.

Tip: Guided tours are not allowed in the basilica; however, the basilica offers a free audio tour that you can download on your phone in advance. If you still have energy left from climbing the stairs up to the basilica, you can climb the stairs up to the dome. Access to the Dome is located outside the Basilica on the left. Note, its 300 steps to climb to the top of the dome and there is no lift!

Montmartre

This artsy and fun neighborhood is set in the 18th arrondissement. Its main attractions are the Sacre Coeur Basicila and Moulin Rouge (absolutely worth going to a show if you can get a night out sans kids); however, this neighborhood has so much more to offer than a brief stop at the main attractions.  Upon leaving the basilica you can wind your way through the neighborhood and side streets. There you will find artist shops, bakeries, small restaurants, and beautiful views. Make sure to take time to peruse the work done by local artists at the Place du Tertre. There you can buy paintings and illustrations directly from the artist (vs. a tourist shop) and even have your portrait made.

Tip: The majority of the streets and sidewalks are cobblestone, so keep that in mind if you plan on bringing a stroller. If your family is interested in the history of Montmartre, there are plenty of walking tours that you can sign-up for in advance. We choose to forgo the tours and explored Montmartre on our own which ended with a glass of wine at an outdoor restaurant and then dessert from a local bakery that we took to a secluded garden to enjoy. Yum!

Palace of Versailles

The Palace is an amazing site to behold and is something you definitely do not want to miss! Although we were tempted to do a full day tour we knew that our daughter would have no patience for that. We opted for a skip-the-line guided half day tour with pick-up from our Airbnb through Viator. Viator was on time and they provided our daughter a car seat as well as headsets for all tour participants so that you could easily hear the guide even if you were not standing near them.

Tip: On certain days a train will run from Paris out to the Palace of Versailles (easiest and cheapest way to get to the Palace)  and on some days they have water fountain and musical garden shows. Unfortunately, the way our scheduled work, neither of those were available on the day we went. Nevertheless, we still enjoy the tour and the gardens (our daughter’s favorite part). The Palace and grounds are huge so don’t expect to be able to see everything even if you do a full day tour. If your kids are older and especially if they are interested in history, take the time to find a tour of the most important places that you want to see on the Palace grounds.

Jardin de Tuileries

The Tuileries Gardens can be found near the Louvre and Musee D’Orsay. While not as amazing as the Luxembourg Gardens, it is still a fun place to spend a few hours (and the playground here is free). It’s also close to Angelina on Rue de Rivoli, that is said to have some of the best hot chocolate and desserts in Paris. If nothing else, stop by Angelina and get your hot chocolate and desserts to go so that you can enjoy them why exploring the Tuileries Gardens.

Picnics in the Parks or Along the Seine River

I’ve mentioned above in a couple of places to pack a picnic and do lunch or dinner in one of the many parks that Paris has to offer. It’s a quintessential Parisian thing to do and now I understand why. It gives you a way to get away from the hecticness of the city while still being in the middle of the city. As a bonus, you can sit and drink a glass of wine and snack on cheese or fruit while watching the kids run and enjoy themselves. If you are interested in watching the sunset and take in the Eiffel Tower light show, find an open spot along the Seine River walkway or in the Champ de Mars park.

Ride a Carousel (or two or three) 

To the delight of our daughter, most of the main attractions and large parks have whimsy and old-timey carousels. If nothing else, they gave her a short reprieve from sightseeing that helped keep us from having meltdowns. All of the carousels we came across did cost a couple of Euros, but in our mind, it was worth it!

 

Things We Skipped/Didn’t Have Time For When Visting Paris with Kids

Paris has so much to offer that it is definitely hard to fit everything in, in the span of a couple of days. This is even truer when you are visiting Paris with kids and you are trying to not run yourself or your kids ragged. We choose to skip the following things and to save them for the next time we visit Paris or possibly the next time we visit Paris without kids. I do list them here though in case you do get some free time away from your kids or if you have older kids that might enjoy some of these adventures.

The Catacombs

Known as the “World’s largest grave,” the Paris Catacombs house the bones of more than six million people. If your kids are older and into scary stories and legends, this might be a great fit for your family. In order to skip-the-line, check out some of Viator’s catacomb tours.

 

The Louvre Museum

The Louvre is undoubtedly a Paris must-see but we knew our daughter would not have the patience to deal with large crowds and spend hours looking at paintings.  Older kids may enjoy it but eventually will run out of steam as well. Look into kid-friendly tours that give you the highlights and let your kids engage and interact with the tour guide. Even if you don’t do a tour of the Louvre, make sure to walk the grounds and enjoy the amazing architecture surrounding this historic museum.

Musee d’Orsay

The Musee D’Orsay is another famous museum that some like even better than the Louvre Museum. Although we would one day like to see this museum it was once again not a good fit for young kids. Older kids may enjoy this museum though and they do have family-friendly tours.

 

Jardin d’Acclimatation

This park is one I wish we had gotten to, but we ran out of time. The park includes a theme park, playground, nature exploration center  (animal farm and aviary) and educational facility.  This fun little park has amusement rides, a train, an adventure playground, wacky mirrors, a rollercoaster, a puppet theatre, a water park, trampolines, and a farm. Although taking your kids to a theme park may seem cheesy, if your kids (or you) need a break and a chance to play hard, this may be the place for you. While there, you can enjoy French snacks, watched a marionette puppet show, enjoy a picnic (including wine!), and in the summer months, kids can have fun in the water play area, while parents relax in a lounge chair.

Moulin Rouge

The Moulin Rouge is a must-see show if you can get a night out sans kids. Make sure to buy your ticket well in advance as they sell out most nights. 

Tip: Your seating is based on your arrival time. Therefore, you should get there an hour in advance if you want really good seats. This does mean that you will have to stand in line and wait, but in the end, it will be worth it. There is a lower age limit of 6 years old; however, we did not see any children at the show. The show does have some nudity and would be best suited for high school age and up.

Cooking Classes

This is something I want to do next time once our daughter is older. There are various classes that give you hands-on training with French chefs in order to teach you how to bake various delectable desserts including macarons, as well as some of the quintessential French dishes.

 

 

Where to Stay When Visiting Paris with Kids

It may be tempting to stay outside of Paris’s city center due to cheaper hotel and Airbnb rates, but I can tell you this is a huge mistake! The money you save will be wasted on taxis and transportation into the main attraction areas and by the time you get there you will have grumpy kids and will have wasted untold hours of your trip. I highly suggest choosing a hotel or Airbnb near the sites you want to see.

Potential Areas to Stay In

Paris is divided into arrondissements. For this trip, we stayed in the 7th arrondissement in a quaint little Airbnb within a cute Parisian neighborhood near the Eiffel Tower. It was perfect, as it allowed easy access via walking to the Eiffel Tower and the Champ de Mars with easy train access (or approx. 45-minute walk) to the Louvre Museum (Musee de Louvre) and the Luxembourg Gardens (Jardin des Luxembourg – a must see with kids). We loved that within a few blocks of our rental, we were able to find several local bakeries, cheese shops, and restaurants. Additionally, we had easy access to the public transportation system, which is a definite must if you don’t want to waste untold amounts of money on cabs or Uber (more on that later).

Another great area of Paris to stay in is the 1st arrondissement which is home to the Louvre Museum (Musee de Louvre), the d’Orsay Museum (Musée d’Orsay), and the Tuileries Gardens (Jardin des Tuileries). It is also close to attractions such as the Cathedral at Notre Dame (Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris).

Keep In Mind

No matter where you stay, keep in mind that staying in a hotel vs. an Airbnb will give you vastly different experiences. It’s up to you and your comfort level as to which will work best for you and your family. For us, Airbnb’s are the way to go as we typically look for places that are kid friendly (bunk beds for older kids or pack n’ plays provided for babies and toddlers, kids toys and games provided, etc.). We also enjoy having a kitchen to cook in! Having a kitchen not only saves money from eating out every meal but also makes it easier to put together a quick breakfast or snack to stave off grumpy kids.

 

What to Eat When Visiting Paris with Kids

• Pick-up fresh bread from a patisserie or boulangerie and cheese from a local Fromagerie. Grab some wine, fruit, and a blanket and have a picnic dinner at the Champs de Mars or one of the many other parks in Paris.
• Macaroons and other fun desserts – There are small bakeries all over Paris that you can find a variety of macaroons and other fun desserts at. Enjoy your vacation and indulged in some of the amazing desserts and sweet treats that Paris has to offer.
• Chocolat Chaud (Hot Chocolate) – The hot chocolate in Paris is thick and rich and nothing like what we are used to in the States. For some of the best and richest hot chocolate (and desserts) in Paris, check out Angelina on Rue de Rivoli near the Tuileries Garden and the Louvre.
• Crepes – Take advantage of the small crepe stands found throughout the parks and attractions around Paris. You kids are sure to love the Nutella crepes, but make sure to try all of the other varieties as well!
• Escargot – This may be a hard sell with your kids, but you can’t visit Paris without trying one of their delicacies. Our rule is we always try new things at least once!

 

Getting Around When Visiting Paris with Kids

Getting around Paris with kids can be surprisingly easy using the public transportation system. You can use the metro (subway), the bus, or a combination of both. Before leaving your hotel or Airbnb each day, use Google maps to help plan your route. It will tell you exactly which rail lines or buses you need to take, which will help take the stress out of getting from point A to point B. If you plan on using the metro or buses to get around the city, as well as, the RER train to get from the airport into the city, look into getting a Navigo Decouverte pass. It’s a 1, 2, 3 or 5-day pass that is available to tourist. It will save you money and time as the pass will give you access to the metro, buses and the REF without having to buy individual tickets.

Paris Metro (aka Paris Subway Network) 

The subway provides an easy way to get around the city; however, the metro stations are not as stroller friendly as the buses (think lots of stairs and not a lot of elevators). They do provide a fast way to get across the city and to various main attractions.

Tip: Do NOT throw your metro tickets away until after you have left the metro station. You will need your ticket to both enter and EXIT the station. Also, watch your purse/valuables! During rush hour, some of the trains can become very packed. Tight quarters make it easy for pick-pocketers to empty your pockets or your purse without you noticing. For information on metro routes check out this interactive metro map or this stationary metro map.

Buses 

The buses are another easy means of transportation to get around the city. They are designed for people with strollers and are also handicapped friendly. They have an open area in the middle of the bus near the rear door for strollers and/or wheelchairs. For information on bus routes check out this stationary bus map.

RER Train (aka Regional Express Train)

The RER connects popular destinations to central Paris such as Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG),  Disneyland Paris, and the Orly Airport. The RER Train is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to get into the city, especially if you get a Navigo Decouverte pass which is available at the airport. For information on the RER routes check out this stationary map.

Allonavette

If taking the train to and from the airport with children and luggage in tow seems like a daunting task, check into Allonavette. They provide reliable transportation and will provide car seats for little ones at no extra charge.

Taxis/Uber

Both of these are available options; however, they should be used sparingly as they are expensive and do not provide car seats for little ones. They can also end up costing you quite a bit more than anticipated if you get caught in one of Paris’s famous traffic jams.

 

Additional Tips and Guidance for Visiting Paris with Kids

 

Don’t overbook yourself!

Schedule in downtime each day for naps or for the kids to run and play! Some of the best places to play are the local gardens. Enjoy the breathtaking beauty of the gardens, as well as, a less hectic pace while your children run and play until their hearts are content!

Learn several basic French phrases.

You will be amazed how open the Parisians are to helping you if you put forth a little effort to speak to them in French. It helps them see you as a real person and not just another annoying tourist. You don’t need to learn full conversations, just a few basic phrases. Once you have politely said “Bonjour! Parlez vous anglais?” you can usually switch over to English. If they do not speak English, you can try using hand signals and keywords to get the info you need.

• Bonjour! (Hello or good morning/good day)
• Parlez vous anglais? (Do you speak English?)
• Merci (Thank you)
• Merci beaucoup (Thank you very much.)
• Au revoir (Goodbye)
• Pardon (Pardon me.)
• Oui  (Yes)
• No (No)
• S’il vous plaît (Please – when making a request)
• Où sont les toilettes? (Where are the toilets?)

Desserts, Desserts, Desserts!

Make sure to take advantage of the various bakeries, dessert shops, and crepe stands that Paris has to offer. Nothing is better than ending a day with a sweet treat or trying a fun new dessert to help give everyone the midday boost they needed. Keep in mind, you are on vacation, so even if you don’t typically do sweet treats at home, it’s ok! We always recommended trying new things in new countries!

Bring a stroller!

If you have young kids, make sure to bring a lite-weight stroller. One of the best ways to truly see Paris is through walking, but little legs can tire out quickly. We brought our Chicco Lite Way Stroller. It gave us a place for our daughter to rest her legs (as well as sneak in short naps). Additionally, the basket underneath provided a place to store our water bottles, jackets, etc. It is NOT recommended to store your purse or anything of value in the basket under your stroller. Always keep valuables securely attached to you.

Where Are Strollers Allowed?

Some attractions will not let you bring your stroller inside. Make sure that the attractions you visit have stroller parking available if needed. If you have a really small child it is best to bring a baby carrier in addition to the stroller.

• • • The Palace of Versailles does have stroller parking. You are not allowed to take the stroller inside the Palace; however, you are allowed to take it into the gardens.
    • Arc de Triumph: There is an elevator (when available) that will take you part of the way up; however, to get the rest of the way up you have to take a tight spiral staircase. Plan on leaving the stroller at home and bringing a baby carrier if needed.
    • Eiffel Tower:  We’ve heard that you can and cannot take a stroller up to the tower. There are two factors at play: 1) Is your stroller considered small? 2) The mood of the staff at the entrance. It’s best to leave the stroller at home and bring a baby carrier if needed.
    • Louvre: Strollers are allowed, but be prepared to carry the stroller up some stairs when transferring from room to room. Walking sticks, folding stools, strollers, baby carriers, and wheelchairs are available to borrow free of charge from the visitor assistance area (located beneath the Pyramid).
    • Notre-Dame: Allowed inside the cathedral.
    • Notre-Dame Towers: No strollers allowed. They do have a place you can park it while climbing the tiny stairwells up to the towers.
    • Musée d’Orsay: Large prams/strollers and baby carriers are not allowed in the museum. Pushchairs are available to borrow from the cloakrooms.

Bring a water bottle!

Make sure to bring a water bottle with you on your outings each day. Buying bottled water can be expensive! Instead, bring a reusable water bottle or buy a disposable one on your first day in Paris.  Either can be washed and reused throughout your trip. It can be hard sometimes to find refilling stations or fountains, so fill up before you leave your hotel or Airbnb. When eating out ask for a carafe of table water “une carafe d’eau” or a glass of table water “un verre d’eau” in order to get free table water; otherwise, they are likely to bring you bottled water which you will be charged for. Flat, normal table water is called plat. Sparkling water is called gazeuse (i.e gased)

Scams

You will find the majority of the scams/ scam artist around the famous sites or monuments. At the Eiffel Tower, there will be dozens of men trying to sell you cheap Eiffel Towers and other trinkets. At the Sacre Coeur, there are men that will try to braid a friendship ring around your finger. Once they have completed it, they will harass you for payment. The scams come in many forms and will vary from location to location. Remember nothing is free and if it seems to good to be true, it is.  Often times these scams are a set-up to distract you from the pick-pocketers that are lurking near-by.

Tip: Teach your children to forcefully put up there hand and say “NO” to any strangers that approach them. Often times the scam artist will try to lure in children in an effort to distract their parents. All it takes is a moment of distraction for pick-pocketers to work their magic.

Don’t Dress Like A Tourist

Try not to dress like a tourist! Avoid chunky white or neon colored tennis shoe and logo t-shirts that scream American. Also, avoid workout/spandex pants (outside of the gym) or any other clothing items that are decidedly American. If you stand out and look like a tourist, you are more likely to be targeted by the scam artist. Go for dark jeans, booties/flats/sandals or low profile tennis shoes. Also, stick with solid color or floral print shirts and scarves in order to fit in with the Parisian population. For kids, the fashion is more laid back but still steer away from logo t-shirts.

 

Visiting Paris with kids can be fun if you plan in advance and you don’t overbook yourself! I hope this information helps you plan a memorable and stress-free vacation! For information on our exact Paris itinerary, be sure to check out my post 3 Days in Paris with Kids.